Bring a large deep saute pan over medium high heat. Add 2 tablespoons oil and leeks, saute until beginning to soften, about 10 minutes. Add chard and saute another 5 minutes. Add cilantro, parsley, and dill, a big pinch of salt and pepper and stir and toss well.

Cook, stirring often, until it dries out and the color changes to a very dark green, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture back into a very large bowl, allow to cool to room temperature.

When cool add barberries, turmeric, baking powder, 2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Taste the mixture: It should be a little on the salty side. If it's not, add a little more salt. One at a time, add eggs to the herb mixture, stirring well after each addition.

Wipe out the pan and heat ¼ cup oil over medium-high heat. Add a tiny spoonful of the kuku mixture to the pan. When it sizzles, add the rest of the mixture and use a rubber spatula to spread it out evenly. The oil should bubble up the sides of the kuku. Run the spatula around the edge and jiggle the pan from time to time to check that the mixture isn't sticking. Cook, rotating pan a quarter turn every 3 to 4 minutes, until it is set and can be flipped.

Use a spatula to ensure that the kuku is not stuck to the pan, then carefully tip as much of the oil as possible into a medium bowl and set aside. Cover the pan with a large, flat platter and flip the kuku onto it and set aside. Return the oil to the pan and carefully slide the flipped kuku back into the pan to cook the second side. Cook over medium-high until the second side is dark brown and the kuku is cooked through, about 5 more minutes.

Flip the finished kuku onto the large platter or plate. Serve warm, cold or at room temperature. It is perfect on its own or with a yogurt sauce or a simple tomato salad.